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December 27th, 2008

A Review of the “Geoffry” Uilleann Bagpipe

A “Geoffry” half set landed in my lap a few days ago. It’s owner thought it a fine instrument, but for some reason “it would not play” and “might need a little setup”.

I write this review in hope that whoever is considering ordering a similar “Geoffry” half set from eBay or a storefront vendor will get some idea what they are in for.

This item also seems to be sold under the name “Si”.

Based on what I have seen, this “Geoffry” half set would lead to extreme frustration on the part of a beginner. The Uilleann Bagpipes are difficult enough for a beginner to approach, even in the best of cases, with a quality instrument. Attempting to learn on the “Geoffry” would be an uphill battle. I have to wonder how many beginners give up soon after acquisition of such an instrument.

While parts of the half set can “perhaps” be made to work by someone knowledgeable in the workings of Uilleann Bagpipes, I would ask: why bother? Excellent and relatively trouble free half-sets are available for a similar price from David Daye, Patrick Skye, C.J. Dixon, Davy Stephenson and several other established and reputable makers. The waits for such instruments are generally short, in the order of 2-4 months.

Several things that I found particularly offensive about this “instrument” are:

a) The name “Geoffry”, which is an obvious attempt to elicit the name of Geoff Woof, a master Uilleann Bagpipe maker. The “Geoffry” pipes bear no relation to that makers excellent work.

b) The target audience for these pipes are naive in the extreme– generally people who are just developing a fancy for the instrument and know little about it. Some are GHB players making assumptions that Uilleann pipes are standardized. Some are caught by the seeming visual attractiveness of these pipes or the exaggerated sales pitches in the eBay ads.

c) Several eBay sellers of this brand boast near 100% approval ratings, with many glowing comments and reviews evident. Given that the pipes as shipped, do not play, and never will without considerable modification, I find this practice intentionally fraudulent and don’t understand why eBay allows this. People are being ripped off for a LOT of money, typically $300-$1500 in US dollars. The few negative comments that exist are responded to by the sellers abusively: “stupid buyer”, “unprofessional buyer”, “ignorant”, “broke in shipping”, etc.

d) Seemingly no effort has been made by the manufacturer at quality control. Just assemble the mismatched and poorly fitted parts and ship.

e) Return policies for these pipes vary from no return allowed, to return in seven days and pay for shipping. The more common return policy among the venders I reviewed on eBay was that returns were not allowed.

f) As shipped, they do not work.

g) They will never work correctly without costly modification.

Review of the “Geoffry” Uilleann Bagpipe Half Set
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It is my understanding that these pipes are made in Pakistan, by a small shop mainly serving the Great Highland Bagpipe trade. The “Geoffry” may be based on some existing makers design, though they seem different than the Tim Britton influenced instruments made by Mid-East Manufacturing.

If anyone knows if a particular makers design was used, I would like to know.

In all this half-set is an odd contrivance. Some parts, like the bag, bellows, and drones, have the potential for working, to some degree, with minor modification. Other components, like the chanter reeds and chanter, will never work well, or perhaps at all. It is as though different parts, made by different people, were thrown together in the dark, and shipped.

Case
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The pipes arrived in an attractive case. The case is on the small side, requiring complete disassembly of drones for transport. Given how much tweaking is needed to get the drones working properly– once they working, a beginner would not want to dissemble them, so they would probably have to seek another larger case.

Bag and Bellows
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The tacked bellows are tight with no leaks. Overall finish is quite sloppy. The gusset made of leather tacked to hardwood clappers. Both clappers are padded. The leather hinge is inadequate for the task of prolonged pumping, but could be replaced with a stiffer leather for more adequate performance. There is too much lateral movement of the clappers.

Hardware fittings are the cheapest available, and little effort has been made to match screws, tacks, colors etc. The waist and arm straps are made of plastic and are quite uncomfortable, and would have to be replaced with something less chafing. Belt holes are placed for a overweight giant, and require trimming even for a 200 pound man. Replacement could be accomplished fairly easily using nylon webbing and pack strap clips.

The bellows intake valve as shipped feels restrictive. Upon removal, it proved to be of adequate construction with a neoprene flapper glued to a brass strip tied to the valve body, forcing the flapper against the valve outlet. For some reason, the brass strip had been bent inwards, forcing the flapper almost permanently closed. By bending the brass outwards a bit, the flapper became less restrictive, airflow was much improved and the bellows now fills the medium size bag with three pumps. The bellows exhaust is of stainless steel, neatly silver-soldered, and adequate. In all, the bellows work with only a little adjustment. Aesthetically, it is not attractive.

The bag-bellows connector is made of clear plastic tubing that is easily crimped and which would cut-off air flow when playing. A quick fix is to replace with car radiator hose, which will not crimp. The connector needed hose clamps at the bellows and the bag ends to remain tight, otherwise, it leaked air. The plastic hose connector is covered with an attractive black velveteen sleeve with elastic ends.

The blowstock looks like a GHB blowstock. It is much longer than it needs to be. Inner diameter seems adequate for airflow. The inner flapper valve seems to work, and I did not dissemble the bag to inspect it.

The medium size bag is of real two-ply laminated leather. Lamination seemed well done, with flock of the outer thicker leather glued to the flock of what looked like a thin glove leather or pigskin. Seams are glued, but not riveted or stitched. As shipped, the chanter stock tie-in leaked badly. Because of the design of the chanter stock (one groove) achieving an air tight seal was difficult. I ended up using contact cement followed by a tie in using the constrictor knot, to make a positive seal. The blowstock and mainstock tie-ins did not leak, and were tied neatly. Surprisingly, once that leak was plugged, the bag holds air quite well. Perhaps the manufacturer should sell bags stand-alone. :D

The bag is covered with a black velveteen bag cover which seems durable and is reasonably attractive. The cover can easily be removed.

The chanter stock was drilled too small to receive a Penny Chanter. I think the hole is too small for most chanters and would have to be re drilled.

Chanter and Reeds
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Visually, the un keyed chanter is attractive. It appears to be made of a freshly stained rosewood. It actually looks pretty nice to an untrained eye, having stainless steel fittings, imitation ivory mounts, and impressive looking but unused key blocks.

Looks aren’t everything…

I do not believe that this chanter will ever sound like a proper Uilleann chanter, or play a two octave scale-in tune. Perhaps I am wrong– has anyone been able to prove otherwise? (Note that I have been able to make the Tim Britton influenced Mid East Manufacturing Rosewood chanter play relatively in tune over two octaves with a proper reed.)

The chanter windcap is made of stainless steel, with lines turned into the steel as ornamentation. The soldered windcap inlet joint appears clean and well done. The chanter is capped with an attractive imitation ivory turning.

Below the windcap is another imitation ivory turning, loosely attached.

The chanter wooden body itself is 15″ is length. That seems very long.

Above the bell of the chanter is another plastic mount, also quite loose.

The bell is encased with a stainless steel ferule with turned lines as decoration.

My guess is that wood used was not seasoned properly, and is now shrinking, as lose fittings are a problem everywhere.

Intuitively, placement of the upper tone holes seems wrong. Back D seems much too high on the chanter. To my eye, the hole geometry and sizing just does not seem right.

A bag of reeds was included. Two chanter reeds are made of plastic, and three of cane.

With the plastic reed the chanter sounded through about 2/3 of the first, or lower, octave. This was well short of the expected two octave range of a proper Uilleann chanter. Every note above G being was out of tune.As a rule of thumb, plastic reeds are not known to work properly, or at all, in Uilleann chanters. It was interesting to note that the owner of this half-set had no idea that a plastic chanter reed was out of the ordinary for an Uilleann chanter. He also had an expectation that Uilleann reeds were mass produced and could be purchased similar to GHB reeds.

Surprisingly, three cane reeds were included that bore some resemblance to traditional Uilleann chanter reeds. Dimensions were 83mm OAL, 15mm width, and the a staple eye ofabout 2.5mm. One of the three actually crowed at G#. After slight sanding and clipping of this reed I placed it in the chanter. Results were a vaguely in-tune one-octave scale, increasingly out of tune the higher one plays. The second octave does not sound with this reed.

I do not believe that whoever made these reeds had an understanding of Uilleann reeds, as it just looks all wrong. The two other cane reeds had strange geometries and I did not bother trying them out.

While there may be an optimal reed configuration for this chanter, I do not know what it is. I believe that lack of a workable reed would be a complete barrier to the beginner. If anyone has been able to reed this chanter, I would like to know the geometry that works.

I did try a known David Daye Reed, a known Martin Preshaw reed, and one of my own (83mmOAL, 12.5mm width, 2mm eye). All had crazy and unexpected results, and none would sound a second octave.

In all cases tone was muted and not at all like what one would associate with an Uilleann chanter.

In all cases tuning was unacceptably bad.

I believe there is design fault in both the reed and in the chanter geometry.

Drones
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Surprisingly, when properly reeded, the three drones played at concert D, with a mellow and pleasing sound. However, it took about four hours of patient tweaking to get them to that point, and they are still nowhere near 100%.

The three drones seemed all at the correct length, or thereabouts, for a concert D instrument.

Two tenor, two baritone, and two bass drone reeds were shipped. None would crow as shipped. They appeared to be made properly, but all seemed short. With a little fiddling they sounded, and could be brought into tune by moving the bridal about. Once in tune the tenor and baritone drones produced a mellow but stable drone.

The bass drone proved problematic, I believe because of the reed, which was too short. Being out of drone cane, I had no opportunity to experiment further. My impression was that it probably could be stabilized at D with proper length and diameter cane.

I did wonder how these might sound with a standardized drone reed set like that available from EzeeDrone. The owner has ordered a set and we shall see.

Drone fittings were exceedingly sloppy. Stainless steel ferules, as shipped, were loose and falling off, with no thread windings at all holding them to the chanter. Imitation ivory mounts were loose, and would fall off easily, having not been glued or fixed into place with thread. All parts smelled like fresh varnish, and coloring of the Rosewood was probably achieved in this way. It looks like it had all been thrown together by an unskilled worker and not tested.

Mainstock
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The mainstock was problematic.

The stock is drilled for three drones. No regulators could be added later.

Drilling of the drone holes is sloppy. The three drones do not fit tightly into the stock, and flop about even with lots of extra winding and Teflon tape. The holes have been drilled at an angle, and while I know this is intentional in some instruments, the crazy angles reflected perhaps freehand drilling as opposed to any plan. The stock is attached to a surprisingly nicely turned cup which is well tied to the bag. Mainstock fittings were of stainless steel and are reasonably attractive. I’m not sure what kind of wood is used, it is very heavy.

The stainless steel drone on-off switch is too tight, making turning the drones on and off difficult. It would have to be bored out a bit bigger to work properly. This switch was also huge and interfered with chanter playing. Visually it was unattractive and ergonomically difficult to use.

Summary
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I can’t emphasize enough how frustrating the “Geoffry” half set will be to a beginning player. My recommendation is to avoid this poorly designed and fitted instrument. Instead of wasting your money on the “Geoffry” half set, please consider the excellent practice and half sets available from some of the established and reputable makers that frequent this board.

In summary:

– the case is inadequate in size for a half set;

– the bag and bellows need significant adjustment not to leak;

– the chanter reeds have design flaws and are unworkable as proper Uilleann Bagpipe reeds;

– the chanter plays only one octave, is out of tune, and this could not be remedied without costly re boring and hole repositioning;

– the drones may (or may not) work with adjustment, assuming you know how to do so;

– the drilling on the mainstock is sloppy, and;

– fittings and mounts are loose everywhere.

If you spend your money on this set, likely your wife will divorce you, little children will run away from you screaming, and puppies will bite you.

I invite your impressions and corrections.

I challenge the makers or sellers of this half-set to respond with postive crituque. If I am wrong in aspects of this review, particularly in regards to the chanter and reeds, how can one remedy?

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 10:23 AM EST

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December 17th, 2008

Uilleann Denial: eBay Pakistani Pipes

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Is your time valuable to you? Would you prefer to spend two years struggling to play the Uilleann Bagpipes with no results, or rather spend your time learning to play tunes from the start, on a well performing instrument that you do not have to fight?

I’ve seen enough of these Pakistani knockoffs now to know that they are for the most part unplayable without extensive and expensive modification. The unsuspecting owners generally are in full denial of that reality, having been taken in by the glossy internet marketing and apparent good looks of the sets. This is usually followed by great disappointment once they realize (after a year or so of struggle) what they have bought.

Indicators of these instruments are that they are sold over eBay or in a store, have a plastic chanter reed, have white elastic leather on the bellows, an “Irish” sounding name like “Geoffry” or “Si”, are advertised as a “starter set”, have a mouth blowpipe, are advertised to come with “4 chanter reeds”, use rubber boat bellows, are “tested and proven”, use “stainless steel”, have glowing reviews by sellers with 100% eBay ratings, and have no return policy or a 15% restocking fee.

Please read this excellent FAQ on Pakistani and other imitation Uilleann bagpipes and why you should BEWARE.

Before buying Uilleann Bagpipes on eBay or from a store, please consider that much of what is sold there is a grand waste of your money and more importantly your time. The instrument is damnably difficult enough to learn under the best circumstance.

Uilleann Pipes are rarely brokered through a store or eBay Most are sold directly by the maker, or by individuals looking to sell a used set. The occasional quality instrument will show up on eBay, but “buyer beware”.

If you are looking for a good starting point, consider purchase of a “Practice Set” from these three excellent makers:

David Daye

Pat Skye

C.J. Dixon (note that C.J. does sell his excellent work occasionally through eBay).

Prices are in the $600 - $1300 range for a practice set, including chanter, cane reed, bag, bellows, blow-stock, chanter-stock, and bag-bellows connector. Consider purchasing a second reed. Cane reeds are fickle. It is all money well spent.

All three makers provide quality affordable instruments which generally play quite well on delivery, and need little setup. All three are willing to give you support by email and phone should tweaking be required. All have fair return policies. These instruments all hold their value for resale.

I am in no way affiliated with any of these makers. I simply admire their good work.  Quite Frankly, the David Daye D concert “Penny Chanter” holds up well against instruments costing a good deal more.

Please help get the word out. 

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 9:45 AM EST

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September 16th, 2008

Nailed Bellows Project

Here is a nailed bellows project completed in September of 2008.  Nails are used instead of furniture tacks, which aesthetically I believe is an improvement, and seems to do as good a job holding the gussett to the clappers as do tacks.  This is a nice surprise, because I was not at all sure that this would be the case– tacks have more surface area.  But is seems fine.

Another experiment was that the gussett is coated with GE Silicon II caulk, which makes for a very plaible yet airtight single wall gussett.  I have no idea what the long term durability of this material is however, and don’t really trust it.  We will see. I also made up a bag like this, and it is the most air-tight bag I have used… if only it will last…

The bellows intake is ebonized maple, and I feel ready now to start working with ebony and boxwood.

I did not add any padding, as it seems comfortable enough against my arm without.

The finish is multiple coats of clear gloss spray-can laquer, buffed with 0000 steel wool between coats. I’ve been told that laquer will yellow and flake with time, so will not use this again. Instead I will attempt to French polish with shellac next time.

All in all, the project came out well, it is very tight, and looks quite nice.  It is a LOT less work than a stitched bellows.  I will use this for my own half set.

Nailed Bellows View 1

Nailed Bellows View 2

Nailed Bellows View 3

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 1:18 PM EDT

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Experimental Bag and Bellows Connector

Here is an experimental bag and bellows connector that I made.  I wanted to use a brass quick disconnect hose fitting that I like, but was concerned that it would mar the mainstock, drones or regulators. I solved this by making the hose screw fitting part of the bellows outlet fixture.  The brass connector is barb fitted to a rubber hose (which could as easily be a vynl hose so as not to mar nickle silver fittings, or sprung leather hose), which in turn friction fits to the bagstock. 

Complete bag - bellows connector:

Bag - Bellows Connector 1

Close up:

Bag - Bellows Connector 2

Seperated:

Bag - Bellows Connector 3

Unscrewed, showing the integrated screw fitting - bellows exhaust:

Bag - Bellows Connector 4

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 1:00 PM EDT

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August 2nd, 2008

Tacked Bellows and Bag Project

A tacked bellows and bag to go with a David Daye Penny Chanter.  Paddles are maple, and gusset is double walled.  Intake valve was originally made of Purpleheart, but this wood proved grainy, fiborous, structurally weak, and prone to tearing, so I replaced the valve with ebonized maple. Bag fittings are pupleheart.  The bag is rivited.

Tacked Bellows 1

Tacked Bellows 2

Rivited Bag with Purpleheart Fittings

Alex with Daye chanter.

Alex with bag, bellows, and Daye chanter.

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 3:58 PM EDT

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April 29th, 2008

Stapled Bellows Project and Photo Essay (Part 1)

I’ve been experimenting with making stapled bellows. 

Here is a photo essay of the process (part 1).

And here are the end results:

Stapled Bellows Project

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 1:52 PM EDT

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February 11th, 2008

Drone Reed Tweaking

After much tweaking, especially of an unstable baritone reed, I’m relativly happy with the stability of the drone reeds of my concert D half-set, in that the three reeds: bass, baritone, and tenor, are finally for the most part stable, and are tone-locking.

Here is a sample.

The drone sample was recorded with a cheap Logitech desktop microphone, unprocessed, and saved to MP3.  But it is still indicative of how good these drones sound.

I say happy for the most part– there is still a tiny bit of reed instability that you can hear (listen for the phase shifting), and I still can’t get all three drones to cut in reliably by flipping the drone on-off valve.  I have to vary pressure to get them all started.  I’m not quite sure what to do about the latter.

It’s taken quite a bit of effort and tweaking to get the drones to this point. I wonder how many isolated pipers just give up, not having access to a maker or expert who can setup their drone reeds. They may not even know the aural difference between good working reeds and ones that are ailing.  Hearing a good set of drones tuned by someone who really knows how to approach this task really helped me.  Last Fall, I was able to observe Benedict Koehler tuning drones on one of his earlier instruments at the 2007 SoCal Tionol.  This really helped with my approach.

My drone reeds had two problems when I received them: they took a lot of air to move, and they were instable, in that the pitch of all three would rise and fall with pressure. The baritone reed was the worse offender.  Shaving the drone reeds carefully to about 1.5mm, and working with placement of the bridals (up and down the reed) solved both problems.  Now they are stable, and play with much less pumping of the bellows.  For what it is worth, I have best luck using rubber “O” rings for bridals, two per reed, with diameter a little smaller than the reed (1/4″ OD for the baritone reed in this case).

When I started with the reeds, I really did not understand how they worked.  I found that completing Edward Damm’s tutorial for building composite reeds was worthwhile for helping to understand the physics of drone reeds; reed length, tongue weight, tongue length, and bridal placement. Though I completed three composite reeds based on this method, I am not using any of them in practice, as they seemed too quiet for my particular drone configuration, which is robust.  They did play very easily, with an even lighter pressure than my current tweaked cane reeds. In all the excercise cost around $10, and was very worthwhile. 

Tim Britton also offers a more involved composite reed tutorial here.

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 8:48 PM EST

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January 4th, 2008

Oneway Drillwizard and Steady Rest in Action

Here are the Oneway Drillwizard wizard and Oneway Steady Rest in action. The project was a simple conical bore flute.  The Drillwizard was used to drill the embouchure, tone holes, and tenon, using Forstner bits of various sizes. 

Oneway Drillwizard setup and ready to drillForstner bit used to drill embouchureEmbouchure all drilled (but too large)Oneway Steady, tenon drilled with Forstner bit held in Drillwizard.

The Drillwizard does not fit every hand drill. This one is a Rigid 1/2 inch variable speed (R7111), which fits well.  Another problem I had with the Drillwizard was that the toolpost was tool long for the Delta X5 lathe banjo. A quick trip to the metal lathe and cutoff tool, reduced length by 1″, which is enough.

I really like both the Drillwizard and the Steady Rest.  Oneway seems to make excellent tools. 

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 12:41 PM EST

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December 9th, 2007

Taper: Wood Lathe vs. Metal Lathe

I’ve been working too hard thinking about cutting tapers.  A simple taper on a wood cylinder is much easier to do on a wood lathe, than a metal lathe.

On a metal lathe, a cutting a taper in wood requires tailstock offset, and some calculation on how much to offset to achieve that taper you are after. Doable once you get the hang of it, but complicated.

After a few hours on my new Delta X5 wood lathe, I’m convinced making a taper is much easier done by hand and eye using either a sharp skew or a roughing gouge.

If only a metal lathe is available, perhaps the thing to do would be to fit a toolrest.

However, tapers on metal rod, a reamer for instance, are best performed on a metal lathe with offset tailstock.

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 8:22 PM EST

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December 3rd, 2007

Woodcut Tools Tru-Grind Tool Sharpening System

Tru-GrindAfter ruining a reed gouge and an old roughing out gouge by trying to hand sharpen on a grinder, I decided to investigate tool sharpening systems that give some control and precision to the sharpening process.  I looked at some of the more expensive systems like those available from Tormek, but ended up settling on a much less expensive ($135 US) and seemingly very versitile solution - the Woodcut Tools Tru-Grind Tool Sharpening System.  It is simple and effective for most kind of sharpening: gouges, skews, cutoff tools.

The kit came with a short but very helpful video on setup and use.

Here’s some user opinion about this tool. And here are more pros and cons.

I’m pretty darn happy with it, especially since it holds a 1 1/4″ roughing gouge. I have not yet figured out how to reverse bevel a reed gouge.  Any ideas would be appreciated.

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 7:33 PM EST

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November 14th, 2007

Oneway Drill Wizard

The Oneway Drill Wizard looks incredibly useful for drilling precise indexed holes, directly on a flatbed lathe.

 Oneway Drill Wizard  Oneway Drill Wizard #2

Here is a detailed review.

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 12:55 PM EST

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November 8th, 2007

Patrick D’Arcy Teachs a Cran

From the 2007 Southern California Uilleann Pipers Club Tionól.

Patrick D’Arcy teaches a GFGA Cran to beginners, slowly. From his Sixpenny Money tutorial in the beginners class on Sunday.


More information about Crans is available at Patrick’s website.

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 6:35 PM EST

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Patrick D’Arcy, Sixpenny Money Tutorial

From the 2007 Southern California Uilleann Pipers Club Tionól.

Patrick D’Arcy patiently taught a group of beginners the jig, Sixpenny Money. Patrick concentrated on teaching ornamentation, including crans, cuts, strikes, and the closed style of playing. Here he slows things down, so that we can learn the details.


It is much harder to do this ornamentation slowly.

I’m finding that this is what works for me:

1. Get the basic tune in my head. To do this, I learn the tune on an instrument that I know well.

2. Get the sound of the ornamentation and closed style into my head, again on an instrument where I don’t have to think twice about executing this sort of technique, in my case, the English Concertina.

3. One I can sing the song and ornamentation in my head, start working the patterns on the D chanter.  Slow repitition is the key; stopping as soon as I feel my grip tightening on the chanter, relaxing, then starting again.

4. An voila… it starts to happen. A week of practice started with a death grip on the chanter, and honks and squeaks like a rank beginner again.  About Wednesday the death-grip started to loosen, as some to the patterns and popping get under my fingers. Each day brings progress.

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 6:08 PM EST

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October 29th, 2007

Hand-Stitched Bellows Project

Hand-stitched bellows project, completed, 10/28/07. It is based on the four-part tutorial by David M. Quinn in the Pipers Review.  This is my first attempt.

Bellows #1 Bellows #2

Lots went wrong in the making, but much went well.  To my amazement, the beast is airtight, sucking, pushing, and holding air better than any bellows that I’ve had, at my limited disposal.

Problems included:

Success:

It took about 40 hours to make, over about a month, including trips to the hardware store, and various other local suppliers.

I’m hoping to photograph the steps in construction of the next bellows that I make, now that some of the problems that I had are worked out. My hope is to post that here.

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 8:29 PM EDT

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September 21st, 2007

Rolled Ferrules

Martin Preshaw has posted an excellent photo-essay of the process of hand-rolling metal ferrules out of sheet brass or nickle silver stock.

http://www.unionpipes.co.uk/sept/thumb.html

This complements Davey Stephensons tutorial:

http://www.bagpipeworks.co.uk/intrest.htm

Tapers can be acheived by making the rectangle trapezoidal.

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 9:45 PM EDT

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September 6th, 2007

Pipe Bending Rig

Groz / Nuline Metal BenderThe Groz ‘Metal Bender” is an inexpesive rig for bending hobby tubing or hand rolled brass or nickle silver ferules.  It is available from MSC Direct  for about $82.00 US.  It seems to work well with some modification. I think that it the same one that Davey Stephenson references on his website.

-

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 3:45 PM EDT

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August 5th, 2007

Cillian Ó Briain Interview

An interview with Cillian Ó Briain on the The Liraman experience Blog. 

“My conclusion now is that you can have a specific bore and a set of note holes and make ten chanters….and there will be one that will be noticeable better than the rest and there will be one that just won’t work. Even with 100 percent dimension consistency you will get different results when dealing with timber. Really, anything you make out of timber always does have this little element of luck.” — Cillian Ó Briain

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 8:45 PM EDT

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July 30th, 2007

Tuning the Chanter, Tuning the Drones

An understandable explanation of just intonation and chanter / drone tuning technique:

 http://chiffboard.mati.ca/viewtopic.php?t=22100&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 12:28 PM EDT

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July 15th, 2007

Cutting a Taper

Here’s a recipe for cutting a taper by offsetting a lathe tailstock:

Taper

Source: http://www.eod.gvsu.edu/eod/manufact/manufact-51.html

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 12:16 PM EDT

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July 12th, 2007

VFD Conversion Practical Results: Torque

Last night I got to spend some time with the VFD converted lathe. What I found was pretty much as expected after some comments on the Yahoo Lathemaster Group list.  Basically, because I selected a higher RPM motor, I have much less torque at lower speeds.

My application is boring hardwoods (very long bores in ebony and blackwood, and tapered reaming at low RPM) and some light metal cutting (making reamers and D bits).

Real world results are that the lathe is quite useable, but not optimal with the 3750 RPM motor.  For me, I think the 1750rpm 1HP motor would work fine and provide all the torque that I need. I will be looking to find that sort of a motor.

I bored through a 15″ maple round using an 18mm twist drill. This is a very long bore.   The lathe no longer has enough torque at very low RPM’s to do this, and just bogs down even with the VFD torque compensation maxed.  Once I got up to above 600 RPM, the drilling went fine so long as I went slow, and did not push too hard. Note that ebony is a much harder wood than maple, so I can expect trouble.

Then I bored through a similar maple round using a gun drill. As expected– no problem and I could do this even at low RPM. The air-cooled gundrill cuts cool and efficient, being of a small 6mm diameter.  The gundrill really wants high RPM and fast feed anyway.

The I did some simple light cuts on 01 steel at ~1800 rpm, and that worked fine too.

In terms of torque, this is not an improvement over the factory Chinese 3/4 horsepower motor and original pulley arrangement, and use of the high RPM requires consideration of the stock bearings.

However, I must say that I am enjoying the variable speed aspect, and can get some very nice smooth cuts in wood and metal at around what I estimate to be 2000 RPM. 

The Powertwist V-Belt has made external mount of a larger motor easy.

Other notes are that the VFD is mounted on a post and rides well above the lathe.  It us convenient, but away from the chips.  Yes, this is a wood cutting application so can be very dusty. I mounted some cheesecloth on the VFD fan intake, which should keep most dust out.

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 10:20 AM EDT

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July 10th, 2007

Variable Speed VFD Lathe Conversion

The Lathemaster 9×30 lathe’s Chinese AC motor capacitor blew.  Three weeks later, the lathe is converted to three-phase AC VFD controlled variable speed  with rpm from 1 to about 3000.  No more belt changes or capacitors!

It took a while to get the parts:

The lathe now runs headless, with all wiring and sheet metal enclosures removed, leaving just the spindle head exposed. The motor is mounted flat, bolted to the table next to the lathe.  The old motor and speed change pulleys are removed entirely from the lathe.  The Powertwist v-belt between motor and spindle is flexible and quiet, and can be adjusted easily.

Pluses:

Minuses

Questions:

Notes:

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 1:44 PM EDT

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June 28th, 2007

Choosing a Metal Lathe

A lathe is the core tool of pipemaking. 

 Two general types of lathe are available: the metal lathe and the wood lathe.  Optimally, one would have both, but these are expensive beasts, and take up a lot of space. My shop is my garage, and I don’t have a great deal of room, so for now, I needed to choose one or the other.  There are arguments to be made that a wood-lathe should be acquired first, as such a lathe allows for hand turning, a core pipemaking skill, but a metal lathe can more easily be adapted for wood turning than can a wood lathe be adapted for the kind of carriage-based precision work that a metal lathe is capable of. So I chose metal lathe and will add a toolrest.

Some of the best metal lathes available are the MyFords, Hardinges and some older American metal lathes, but for me these are just to pricy. And, there just aren’t any used Myford Super 7’s in my neck of the woods. Even the excellent Taiwanise Hardinge clones are over $10,000 US.  My budget was in the $1k-$2k range (you laugh!)

What are available and affordable are the Chinese-made metal lathes. The quality of these varies a great deal, and most need a good deal of work before they are usable.  Some are intolerably bad, and some are not bad at all, with some labor and modification. I like to think of Chinese metal lathes as kits.  While the initial cost of such Chinese lathes is initially low, you end up spending a good deal to retrofit them to a workable state.  You may spend as much as the cost of the lathe. Don’t expect a 100% working Chinese lathe out of the box! For example, it’s very common to have the lathe delivered with a foobar motor, or wire dangling loose. That can be very frustrating, but you learn a lot about your lathe and how it operates and how it is repaired, and gaining self-sufficiency with your tools is a worthy goal, i.e. fix it yourself as opposed to calling an (expensive) repairman.

In choosing a Chinese metal lathe I set the following requirements:

Based on these criteria, I started looking my search for a metal lathe.

Obviously, a cheap Chinese metal-lathe is unlikely to meet all these requirements.  Thus, the lathe should be capable of being retrofitted to some extent.

After a great deal of research, I choose the Lathemaster 9×30 ($1289 in 2007).

To be continued…

Posted by hpinson as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 9:50 AM EDT

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Welcome to the Uilleann Deconstruction Blog

Hi. Welcome to my Uilleann Deconstruction Blog.  The name is a play on words on “Uilleann Obsession”, and maybe I should have called this Uilleann Destruction. My intent is to document what I learn about building Uilleann Bagpipes, a complex and fascinating musical instrument. My hope that the knowledge that I gain will be of use to others. 

I have been working on understanding what it takes to build Uilleann Bagpipes now for about two years, since 2005.  After all this time I am really only to the point of a beginner; understanding the mechanics of this instrument, learning to play it,  and assembling appropriate tools and understanding of mechanical process’ of construction are a huge and time consuming challenge.  This seems is a zen-like enterprise, and it has been helpful to take a long-term view and approach, and to have plenty of patience for things gone wrong.   There is no immediate gratification here. Welcome.

Posted by admin as Uilleann Deconstruction Blog at 7:59 AM EDT

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